13.5% alc./vol. - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada - $38 at Winery

8.5 Grapes

Sometimes I wish my words could be as well-sculpted as the wine sampled.  Here, I may fail.  Great intensity and scope across the board: nose is entreated with a fine, purely mineral essence, supplemented by toasty bread. The palate’s ripely hewn fruit and sterling acid belie a fleshy, mouthfilling chomp, flossed out with some strangely appropriate wood-tannins.  I’ve become extra-selective in purchasing lately, yet I dropped the cash for this in a heartbeat.  Seduction, thy name is Chardonnay.

12.5% alc./vol. VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario - $12.95 in Ontario (662478) (375mL); $24.95 in Ontario (542522) (750mL)

9 Grapes

Niagara’s 08 Gewurztraminers sing a fine tune — no further proof necessary than this aromatic phenom.  Excellent bitterly-driven essence of dried spice and orange zest, while an opulent palate proffers lavender bath wash, nectarine core, and a bit of wildflower on the back end.  Decisively exotic.  Worth the plunge with pork rillettes. (JW)

% alc./vol. not noted - VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada - $39.95 at Winery

9 Grapes

I see this wine like Pierre Thomas of the New Orleans Saints: a bruising, well-rounded running back (c)hard on nay-sayers. Dominant, between-the-tackles alcohol, but with commensurate aromatic vision and finishes [palate] runs very well.  Awesome sweet apple blossom, white peach and nectarine-pit fruit and some gritty, sponge toffee on the back-end.  A solid pick for your keeper league, a.k.a. cellar.  (JW)

13.5% alc./vol. - VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada - $29.95 at Winery

8.5 Grapes

You know when you taste a wine and you can’t get a firm grip on it because it’s closed, ironically, like a tight fist?  Example C, right here.  And yet, despite the primary fruit restraint, the vanilla/char bouquet is powerfully telling.  Give it a few months to get humming, then drink over the next few years with coconut-curried chicken.  Limited to 60 lovely cases. (JW)

13.0% alc./vol. - VQA approved/sub-app not noted; Ontario, Canada - $19.95 in Ontario (573147)

8 Grapes

If you need a safety net purchase in the Vintages section, you found it.  Lots of bright, rosy vanilla off the nose (if, you can imagine vanilla to be rosy).  Apple blossom and pie crust throughout with an underscored subtle toast.  Very well built for the price.  Composed of barrel fermented and stainless steel portions; b-f the majority shareholder. (JW)

9% alc./vol. - VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada - $11.95 (375mL) in Ontario (129759); $18.95 (750mL) at Winery

8 Grapes

Also known as “spritz,” the Chardonnay Musqué hits some key style marks in the guilty-indulgence category.  Lightly effervescent, sweet, yet with some quality balancing acid too.  Pretty good varietal-perfume play off the nose with an underlying tangerine zing.  Tangy zip better than Miracle Whip.  Could be wicked cool with a dessert like baked Alaska. (JW)

13% alc./vol. - VQA Ontario, Canada - $24.95 (To Be Released)

8 Grapes

An honourable hybrid.  Where most fall into the realm of short and pithy, there’s admirable depth here.  Barrel-spice leads the charge on the nose, augmented by a little leather and a tart, juicy dark-fruit combo (prune? blackberry?).  Cap it off with a whiff of drying leaves in the autumn breeze.  Not a worldbreaker, but a fighter punching above its weight. (JW)

12.6% alc./vol. - Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia - $20.00 in Ontario (72868)

8 Grapes

Overloaded with aroma and charm at the outset, this good value sparkler gushes apricot, dough and peach pie crust.  Average mousse, not outstanding, but again, we’re talking valuevaluevalue here.  I’d like to serve this before dinner with casual friends who look like models, a light snowfall outside (fireplace on), wearing GAP or Banana Republic clothing, remarking how great life is. (JW)

13% alc./vol. - Crozes-Hermitage AC, Rhone, France - $21.95 in Ontario (127720)

8 Grapes

I’m leading this description with egg whites. Yeah, egg whites. (Two guesses what they used to fine it, maybe?)  Creamy mouth.  Fleshy, filling.  White flowers, chalk dust, pineapple core and lemon zest. Acid muted around 10 degrees but really lights up around 13. I may yet be sold on Marsanne, but it’s taking its time.  Uber-compatible with curried lentil soup. (JW)

12% alc./vol. - Vouvray AC, Loire, France - $16.95 in Ontario (140624)

7.5 Grapes

Straw coloured to the eye, a cute little drinker.  Some of the Chenin familiars are here in this medium-dry quaffer. Picture drinking warm honey, with moderate-high playful acidity under a light-medium weight frame.  Straddles fruit lines too, packed with nectarcot (apricot+nectarine, my own invented fruit), plus a little dirty funk to it.  Kewl Riesling alternative for those with apricot-tofu tagine ready.

Ch. de Valmer seems named to draw those who would buy Grand Cru Chablis from Valmur… I talked to at least 20 people in line who thought so. :/ (JW)